Hotel Waldhaus, Sils Maria

Tekst by Gherardo Gaetani, Photography by Mart Engelen

The Waldhaus.

It’s more than a place; it’s a long-gone mood and feeling. Can I concisely describe the Waldhaus in Sils Maria? No. It’s impossible. The story of such a place deserves to be told by the pens of long-gone great novelists. Herman Hesse or Thomas Mann, once patrons of the Waldhaus, would paint a better picture. I fear I can’t do it justice but here is my best attempt to describe not only an historic hotel but also an unfortunately rare, in fact vanished, way of travel and mood. Immediately upon entering the Waldhaus Sils you realise you have entered a special world. No one is bothering you with cucumber water or any other trendy half-attempt at welcoming you. There is no overly enthusiastic marketing person greeting you with a feigned smile. Everything is very efficient and cordial; they do not follow the current superficial trends of hospitality. This is what makes it special; it has remained an institution by preserving its identity. The grand structure, first opened in 1908, is perched on a hilltop with 360-degree views over Lake Sils, Lake Silvaplana and the many imposing surrounding mountains. It now seems an obvious place for a hotel but back then it was the visionary choice of Josef and Amalie Giger- Nigg. The hotel is now managed by their great-grandchildren, Claudio and Patrick Dietrich, who have kept the old-world allure and way of travel alive, but combined with a sophisticated savoir-faire that meets modern needs. The Waldhaus has something for everyone, the uniqueness in its rooms and public spaces makes it universally appealing. I could describe the dining room, the bar, the cosy seats by the fireplaces, the reading and smoking rooms, the grand hall or I could start with the rooms: some contemporary and others kept in the traditional style. The new, modern spa is beautiful, calming and perfectly integrated with the rest of the structure. It has an indoor pool, big enough to actually get some laps in. They also have some great art, discretely hanging, like pieces from one of the most important contemporary artists, Gerhard Richter.