Kronenhalle, Zürich
A true legend celebrating its centenary
Text and Photography by Mart Engelen
On the way back from my six thousand kilometre road trip that reached Taormina, I just had to stop at one of my favourite culinary and art hang-outs in the world. The legendary Kronenhalle celebrates its centenary this year and the combination of extraordinary art, food, service and people has made this special place a home for many since it was bought by the flamboyant Hulda and Gottlieb Zumsteg a hundred years ago. Upon the death of his stepfather, Gustav Zumsteg (1915-2005) took on the management of the business. He was the very successful and highly regarded owner of the Abraham AG silk factory. Already connected with the innermost circle of fashion designers, he also cultivated friendships with the artists of the time and that soon resulted in a collection of international renown. The backbone of the collection are works from French Modernism. To dine in this place under a genuine Picasso, Matisse or Chagall is always a magical experience. Located in Zürich’s city centre, between the opera, theatre and art house, the Kronen- halle has always attracted big names such as Thomas Mann, Marc Chagall, Federico Fellini, Bruno Ganz, Yves Saint Laurent, Alberto Giacometti, Mick Jagger, Michael Schumacher and so many more. Guests from all over the world have been inspired by its unique atmosphere, cuisine and dazzling artworks. The service is impeccable and friendly and some of the waiters have worked there for close to forty years. Chef Peter Schärer, who has headed the Kronenhalle kitchen for the past thirty years, and his team ensure every guest is looked after to perfection. Director Dominique Godat has been running the restaurant since 2020 and has set himself the task of leading the Kronenhalle into the future without challenging its genius loci. I opted this time, as so often before, for one of the Kronenhalle’s signature dishes: Kalbsfilet geschnetzelt «Kronenhalle» (sliced veal fillet “Kronenhalle”) with rösti and, of course, for dessert the unrivalled Mousse au chocolat, paired with some glasses of Margaux. What a delight!
It’s always wonderful to then go for a cocktail or digestif in the Kronenhalle Bar which is considered by connoisseurs to be one of the best in the world. Mes félicitations!