A special issue dedicated mainly to Italy wouldn’t be complete without my favourite restaurant in Italy: Lo Scoglio da Tommaso. Lo Scoglio is a waterfront restaurant and hotel with a private beach in Nerano on the bay of Marina del Cantone, the northernmost point of the Amalfi Coast. It opened in 1952 when Antonietta De Simone noticed that the bay in front of her house was often full of boats sheltering from the wind and high seas and she realised that it would be a perfect location for a restaurant. Her husband Aniello (nicknamed ‘Pappone’, which means a person with a good appetite) fell in love with Antonietta because of her beauty and most importantly her cooking. In his eyes she was the best cook and he loved the idea and supported her initiative. It became an instant success, frequented by a wide array of characters: the rich and famous, Italy’s intellectuals, fishermen, smugglers and their neighbours: theatrical maestro Eduardo de Filippo and ballet great Rudolf Nureyev. No matter how famous, Antonietta welcomed and fed everyone in the same way. Today there is still that same atmosphere and eclectic mix of people; it’s quite possible for a Hollywood mogul or rock star to be sitting at the table next to a local farmer. Lo Scoglio is a place for people who appreciate quality. The freshest ingredients prepared in a simple, authentic and traditional manner make Lo Scoglio Italian cooking at its best. It is still run by the De Simone family: a place of so much love and attention could only be a family business. Giuseppe, who everyone calls Peppino, is the son of Antonietta and Pappone. He is a fisherman, farmer, poet and figurative head of the family. His wife, Santina is not highly visible but something tells me she is in charge. They have two daughters, Antonia and Margherita, and one son, Tommaso. Antonia, the elder daughter, is in charge front of house. Beautiful and charming, she is a true genius when it comes to hospitality. Margherita, equally alluring, runs the back office and checks all the orders that arrive in the kitchen. She runs a tight ship; there is efficiency no matter how full the restaurant is. Tom- maso is the youngest and is the head chef with important culinary and cultural responsibilities. The rest of the staff are colourful cousins, nephews and nieces who all have the same passion and love for the place. Naturally, Lo Scoglio serves traditional Mediterranean cuisine: local, seasonal products prepared to recipes passed down through the generations. Peppino is a man of the land and sea and the creative genius behind the fresh and seasonal dishes. He has farmed the steep terraced hills and fished these emerald seas since his early years. Every member of the De Simone family has a role, not only in the restaurant’s success but also in keeping Nerano’s culinary tradition alive. They express their role with so much joy, passion and positive energy that I always leave this wonderful place happier than when I arrived.

Gherardo Gaetani aka Baru: Your father always tells me that you are the only one who can make your grandmother’s dishes and that many times you surpass her. Have you tried to change Lo Scoglio’s cuisine? Add a bit of your own touch? Or have you kept everything strictly traditional?

Tommaso De Simone: I was practically born in this restaurant and it has been part of my life every day. I am part of it. The values and ideals with which it was created need to be respected and safeguarded. But you also need to keep up with the times, so I have tried to add something fresh to the menu while always keeping it traditional. Some dishes I have made more modern or just made them better using different techniques.

GG: You have become one of the best known restaurants in the world. With this popularity and demand, has it been hard to maintain your authenticity and attention to the products?

TDS: What must be preserved is the quality and genuineness of our dishes. The real secret is to continue searching for the produce, something my father helps us with every day. Thanks to him it’s easy to have fruit and produce. As for the fish, we have to court the few fishermen who are left in our area.

GG: What dish best typifies Lo Scoglio?

TDS: The dish that defines Lo Scoglio best is our pan of vegetables; simply because of their superior quality.

GG: You are a restaurant on the beach, literally in the water. But the land has a strong imprint on your cuisine. Do you think your clientele understand how much work is involved in a simple plate of vegetables?

TDS: It’s hard not to distinguish the quality of our vegetables. Often people who don’t eat vegetables start eating them here because they can taste their real flavour, grown in the right terroir without any chemicals. I tell people who don’t understand what goes into serving these vegetables, just go and eat at a fast food joint. To them it would be the same.

GG: What’s the weirdest request you have had in the kitchen?

TDS: There have been a lot of strange requests. But, after all, there are a lot of weird people out there.

GG: What’s your favourite thing to cook?

TDS: I like to cook my grandmother’s recipes the most. I use the same pots and pans she did, and they remind me of when we used to cook together. I love to cook the pastiera, the Genovese and the potato salad. She had hasty methods in the kitchen but somehow they made every dish special.

—Copyright 2023 Gherardo Gaetani

Lo Scoglio da Tommaso, Marina del Cantone, 2023