It is at least 25 years since I last stayed at the Relais de Chambord in the Loire Valley. At the time the Relais was a simple country hotel but it had one of the most unique locations in the region, opposite the Château de Chambord, France’s most iconic castle. So I was really thrilled to go back recently after such a long time. In 2018, the Relais de Chambord was reborn as a boutique hotel but one that still exudes authentic charm. Renowned French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte guided the project of transformation into luxury accommodation, which totally respected its unique architecture and surroundings. Today it is a valued member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. The hotel enjoys a truly majestic site by the River Cosson, just 50 metres from the chateau in the Domaine de Chambord: an unequalled UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the only hotel actually within the Château de Chambord’s vast estate. Some rooms have views of the chateau while others overlook the river. The Château de Chambord’s history starts in the mid-sixteenth century when King Francis I decided to create a royal hunting lodge (and the estate still offers some of the best hunting in the area). Despite this modest goal, it grew into the largest renaissance castle in the Loire Valley. The hotel building was originally kennels for the king’s hunting hounds. There are displays in the public areas of historical drawings, prints, maps and period black-and-white photographs of Chambord alongside fascinating contemporary art works expertly curated by Marie-Laure Jousset, the long-serving chief curator at the Centre Pompidou. Unfortunately, Le Grand Saint-Michel restaurant was closed during my stay but that gave me the opportunity to try the bistro menu of ‘Le Bar du Relais’ which was a real joy. A perfect, delicate tuna tataki with beetroot and red fruit as a starter and an absolutely delicious main, Black Angus beef, ‘cuisson parfait’, with potatoes and béarnaise sauce. Accompanied by a delicious Château Gaby. I hope it doesn’t take me another 25 years to revisit this marvellous place!