Salvador Dali, Port Lligat

Text by Mart Engelen
Photography by Mart Engelen, Jean Dieuzaide and Edward Quinn

Dali dans l’eau, Port Lligat, Spain 1953 Photo: Jean Dieuzaide © Jean Dieuzaide

Dali dans l’eau, Port Lligat, Spain 1953
Photo: Jean Dieuzaide © Jean Dieuzaide

Once every few years, I have the urge to revisit the beautiful Catalan fishing village of Cadaqués in the north of Spain close to the French border. It gained world fame after the celebrated surrealist painter Salvador Dalí moved to live in the little village of Portlligat in 1930, just a five-minute walk from its neighbour Cadaqués. Attracted by the landscape, the light and the isolation of the place, he moved into a small fisherman’s hut which he then used as the basis for the house he created little by little over the course of forty years. Dalí himself described it as “like a true biological structure. Each new pulse in our life has its own new cell, a room”. This house was Salvador Dalí’s only regular home; the place where he usually lived and worked until 1982 when, following his wife Gala’s death, he moved to Púbol Castle. After the establishment of the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation and his own death in 1989, the Portlligat house became a museum in 1997. And, of course, there was L’Hostal, the only bar Dalí frequented in Cadaqués. It’s still there today. It was the place where in the 1970s he took his friends including Gabriel García Márquez, Mick Jagger and Federico García Lorca to party. He described L’Hostal as “el lugar mas bonito del mundo” (the most beautiful place on earth) and he really put Cadaqués on the holiday wish list of the bohemian-chic set. I remember arriving in Cadaqués in the late ‘70s as a young student with my then girlfriend in my old Peugeot 204 and entering the L’Hostal. I had just picked the bar I liked the most. I saw this eccentric man in a long gown and with a remarkable moustache. I had no idea at the time but it must have been Dalí. After all these years, this magical sea-sprayed, whitewashed town has managed to keep its wonderful purity and authenticity. So it was a sine qua non that this was the place to start my five-week #59 road trip through Spain.

Casa Dali, Port Lligat 2021 Photo: Mart Engelen © Mart Engelen

Casa Dali, Port Lligat 2021
Photo: Mart Engelen © Mart Engelen

The Bay of Port Lligat, 2021 Photo: Mart Engelen © Mart Engelen

The Bay of Port Lligat, 2021
Photo: Mart Engelen © Mart Engelen

Salvador Dali at work in his studio, Port Lligat 2021 Photo: Edward Quinn © EdwardQuinn.com

Salvador Dali at work in his studio, Port Lligat 2021
Photo: Edward Quinn © EdwardQuinn.com